Want to Start a Fight? Name Your Favorite Pizza Joint.

Pizza and I have a long-standing love affair.  We have endured our ups and downs, but our relationship can withstand any storm, even the doughy mess that passes for pizza at some unmentionable national chains.  My pizza DNA can be traced to southwestern Connecticut.  Back in the day, there were myriad places from which to choose.  My personal favorite was Jerry's Pizza in a neighborhood called The Hollow, in Bridgeport, CT.  Sausage, mushroom and "scamoats" ruled the day.  It wasn't until I was much older that I learned that scamoats was a regional dialect version of the Italian, scamorza, or smoked mozzarella.  All I knew was the flavor was unlike any other pizza in town.  I also loved the departed original Brick Oven, and the Apizza Center in Fairfield.  These were not fancy places, but the owners were local and still had a bit of Italy in their voices.  When I got older, and had access to a car, we would go to Wooster Street in New Haven to the temple of pizza, Frank Pepe's Pizza Napoletano.

Pepe's is my favorite Connecticut pizza (say what you will Sally's folks) and even though they have opened more convenient branches in Fairfield County, the New Haven location if the first and best.  There's pizza, salad, beer, wine and soft drinks.  And that's enough.  If you do one thing really well, why not just keep doing it.  Novices may be put off by the charred crust, but to me it is crispy, chewy perfection.  All the pizzas are delicious, but for a real treat try the white pizza with clams, bacon and garlic.  If you like clams, you will love it.  The smoky bacon complements the briny clams in a way that brings out the best of both ingredients.  The service can be a tad brusque, but there is usually a line of people waiting to get in, so they try to keep people moving through.  It's an experience everyone should have at least once.

At the southern end of the east coast is a delightful road discovery, Arte Pizza in Fernandina Beach, Florida on Amelia Island.  This little island, about 25 miles north of Jacksonville has a surprising number of good restaurants, but Arte was the biggest surprise of all.  Who expects to find authentic Italians, making real pizza on a tiny island near the Florida-Georgia line?  Arte is better than most of the pizzas I have tried outside of the northeast.  The restaurant itself was tiny when we first visited.  There was a small dining room, a small kitchen and you had to wait for your order outside.  Luckily it's Florida, so it's not cold, although the mosquitos would dine on you as you waited.  Last I was there, a new restaurant was under construction that would expand the dining and waiting areas. All the pizzas are delicious and they also have fresh and creative salads and pasta specials.  We have been known to eat there multiple days during a week's vacation.

And back in the northeast, I found the perfect marriage of pizza, wine and atmosphere at Area Four in Cambridge.   On a bitterly cold evening last winter, I found myself alone for dinner while away for a conference.  I was craving pizza and figured the chances were good that I would find something tasty in Boston.  After a quick cross-reference of my internet sources, I decided on Area Four,  a short walk from my hotel on the MIT campus near Kendall Square.  It was only three blocks, but felt like three miles in the Siberian grade wind that was blowing that night.  Let's just say I was happy to get into the warm, modern space and find the last seat at the bar.  I drank  a glass of generously poured Sangiovese and enjoyed (or maybe inhaled) the sausage and banana pepper pizza.  It was sweet and spicy with an airy, yet chewy crust. The bartenders were engaging and fun to chat with as were the other bar diners.  There's a larger dining room in back, but if there's just two of you, I would really recommend the bar.  I even had a taste of delicious Japanese whisky on the house.

That wraps up this edition of my adventures in pizza, but rest assured there will be more.  Feel free to post any recommendations from your favorite cities.

Straw Valley Food and Drink: An Oasis Amid the Big Box Stores

Straw Valley Food And DrinkStraw Valley is a re-imagination of a peculiar space lodged between highway 15-501 and Hope Valley Commons shopping center. Most people drive by every day and never even notice that there are buildings there. Recently, Chef Adam Rose, of Il Palio in Chapel Hill, and his partners, purchased the space that housed a funky coffee shop and converted it to a sprawling complex that includes a cafe and raw bar, a beer garden, and a fine dining restaurant, Black House. This review covers cocktails at the oyster bar.

The Food:

The Cheese Plate: Blooming Decadence from Hillsborough Cheese Company, Calvander from Chapel Hill Creamery and Point Reyes Original Blue from Cowgirl Creamery



Prosciutto Plate with 24 month Pio Tosinni and Guglhupf baguette:



Oysters from Washington State and Coastal Virginia 

Ceviche with lemongrass, ginger scallop: 

The Drinks: A crisp Muscadet, Amphilobite, Jo Landron, 2012, Loire Valley

The Service:

We sat at the bar. Our two servers were welcoming and knowledgeable about the food and wine. They looked equally at ease serving the guests out on the patio.

The Atmosphere:

The cafe/bar is a sleek, modern, albeit somewhat narrow space. The fenced patio is more expansive and furnished with modern chrome furniture. With the trees surrounding the property, you quickly forget you are literally seconds away from one of the busiest thoroughfares in the area. I also liked that the chef was wandering around checking on things.

The Verdict:

Straw Valley made me feel like I was in Sonoma Valley with its combination of big city style, small plates and rustic outdoor spaces.

LEKR on the Road: Atlanta

In April, the LEKR team headed down south to Atlanta to sample some of the city’s finest. Atlanta has been experiencing a culinary renaissance for the past 10 years or so. No longer just a meat-and-three or expense account fine-dining town, Atlanta has been taking on and even leading some of the national food trends, including food trucks, farm-to-table and quirky. On this trip we kept it casual albeit varied with a mix of deli, seafood, BBQ and bar food. Out of four restaurants, only one was a disappointment. And it was not bad, just unable to live up to the hype.

General Muir

The Food:

I had read about the vegetarian reuben, made with smoked beets, in Bon Appetit and was dying to try it. My companion, who hails from the NY metro area, decided on the corned beef. We shared fries and slaw as sides. Overall, everything was okay, but not exceptional. The beets kept sliding out of the sandwich, which may not seem like a big deal, but is very annoying after the third or fourth time. The fries were good. The slaw looked good, very creamy and piled high, but lacked flavor, I think that was the overwhelming feeling about the lunch. None of the flavors popped. And I don’t mean in an overseasoned, hot for hot’s sake way. Just very neutral on the palate. 

The Drinks:

Only one- Viognier Le Paradou Rhone Valley, France 2011

The Service:

Our waitress was friendly, knowledgeable and efficient.

The Atmosphere:

General Muir is in a new urban shopping mall/residential complex called Emory Point. I loved the look of the place, clean and bright with white tiles and a mix of booths and wooden tables. Plus, there was a covered patio for sunny days. 

The Verdict:

Jury is out. I want to love this place, so I will give it another try for the traditional “appetizing” offerings like the smoked salmon and other fish, plus the bagels.

Fox Brothers BBQ

Fox Brothers gets a lot of hype. From big-name food publications to not always reliable Yelpers. I love barbecue, and its one of the few foods that I do not cook for myself. In any event, I love to eat bbq and especially all the accompaniments. I liked the look of Fox Brothers as we drove in. It is a rangy, low-slug red wood building, with a big patio. It sits by the railroad tracks (not sure if this is the right or wrong side) in a gentrifying area on the east side of Atlanta.

The Food:



Fried pickles: strange and strangely addictive. Served piping hot and crispy.

Rib combo with baby back ribs and brisket, plus macaroni and cheese and greens 

Sloppy Bro: Brisket with bbq sauce, american cheese and onion rings 

The Drinks:

Only sweet tea this time, it was only 11 am on a Wednesday, but it was good and cold.

The Service:

Cheery and efficient. You could float away on the drink refills.

The Atmosphere:

Lively, casual and fun

The Verdict: Go here now and go here hungry. The brisket was the tastiest I’ve ever had in a restaurant. The ribs were well-seasoned with a zesty dry rub and the meat was tender and juicy. The collards rocked. The mac and cheese, was good, but not exceptional. Next time I want to try the Frito Pie.

The Optimist

Located in Atlanta’s revived Westside neighborhood, which has become a foodie paradise, The Optimist always puts a smile on my face.

The Food:

Appetizer: A dozen oysters (east and west coast) 

Dinner:

Crispy whole red snapper with garlicky ginger sauce, charred peppers, and fried shallots. 

Halibut with grilled artichoke, lemon anchovy citronette, and spicy olive relish

Basmati “fried rice”, smoked fish, curry, peanuts, and egg

Dessert:

Chocolate tart with sea salt and a toasted coconut marshmallow, plus toasted coconut sorbet  

The Drinks:

Reef Rye (High Rye Redemption, Aperol, citrus and strawberries), and Leitz Out Riesling (dry). The Reef Rye was perfect for a warm spring evening. Boozy, but refreshing thanks to the tart citrus and sweet berries.

The Service:

Friendly, but not overly familiar. Dish arrival was well-timed.

The Atmosphere:

High energy and high volume. Fun for couples or a group, but not the place for intimate conversation. 

The Verdict:

I love this restaurant. It has the right combination of good food, varied menu and energetic atmosphere that keeps me coming back.

Victory Sandwich Bar 

The Food:

The Castro-smoked pork, ham, pickle, fontina cheese and yellow mustard 

Porky’s Revenge-smoked pork, Texas bbq with bread and butter pickles with a side of Israeli couscous with confit tomatoes, cilantro, and white balsamic 

House salad with mixed lettuce, radish, parmesan and sherry vinaigrette 

The Drinks:

The Paloma-Mexican grapefruit soda with reposado tequila and lime “World Famous” Jack and coke slushy. Order it and make it the 8 ounce. 

The Service:

Order at the bar and get it delivered to your table. At a certain time of day, they shift to table service. 

The Atmosphere:

Industrial hipster, in a good way. An eclectic, friendly crowd. 

The Verdict:

Love at first sight, first bite, and first sip. I have told many Atlanta friends about this place. It is a great spot to spend an afternoon. And when the weather’s nice, you can sit on the patio.